Router Bits, so how do you decide?

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The most popular router bit on the market is a “1/4″ Round over bit”. (Note: From a survey of a long list of Router users.) When buying router bits the only way to tell a good or bad bit is by looking at the characteristics of the router bit.  And as always not all router bits are created equally so when looking for your next 1/4″ round over bit look for the following:

1) The Carbide,

The bit should be carbide with the size of the carbide chip large enough to yield 3 to 5 sharpening. The grades of carbide range from C1 rough, C2 general purpose, C3 finishing and/or C4 precision. Having said that not all grades are created equal. There are thousands of manufactures with thousands of different grades. The US uses the “C”, which is used to grade upon kind of uses. In general the C2 and C3 are tougher and less brittle than the C4 but need to be sharpen more often. C4 is more brittle but holds an edge and doesn’t need to be sharpen as often.

2) Grinding,

Is the face polished or dull and full of grinding grooves? A polished face usually indicates it has been ground with a fine diamond stone and the use of grinding coolant. The price is one indicator of the quality of the carbide router bit. It is determined by the amount of work that is needed to manufacture the router bit. It is easier to face polish a C2 or C3 carbide router bit than it is the face polish a C4 carbide.

Please Note: We have found that in most cases the additional cost doesn’t yield that much more benefit to the DIY woodworker. Why? Well because each DIY woodworker doesn’t need their round over router bit to cut a thousand lineal feet of molding where as the professional might use their tools more often and longer. Next, there are many benefits to using the tougher C2 or C3 carbide over the more brittle C4 grade. These lower grade of router bits can usually stand more abuse than the more brittle C4.

3) Clearance,

Does the carbide extend beyond the router bit body? If not you may experience Burning. See the Clearance Samples in Photo One. The cutting edge must have clearance from the bit body. Next, what is the Rake Angle? All router bits will cut much better if the bit has a positive rake angle. See the rake angle comparisons in photo one.

The last characteristics is the Shear Angle, so is the carbide mounted straight up and down to the body or does it lean at a small degree ahead giving it a positive shear angle. To see the shear angle you need to look at the side of the router bit to see that it has a positive shear angle. See Photo two

Note: Think how the bit must cut. The least amount of resistance the better. When using a hand plane if you push it square to the work piece it is hard to push and does not leave a good surface. Angle it either way and it cuts better and is easier to push. It is the same with a router bit.

4) Chip load,

When the bit is running it is at a high speed and has to get rid of the chip load. Therefore, you need clearance to get rid of the chips. This is accomplished by having slim body with both the shear and the positive rake angle.

5) Shank,

Check the bit shank. Does it fit snugly into the collet and always select the larger diameter shank (1/2″ as opposed to 1/4″). I found one customer that made a go/no-go gauge that he used when purchasing router bits. It was a steel plate with precisely drilled holes in it (1/4″, 3/8″ and 1/2″). He tried every bit shank in his plate before he would purchase the bit. A shank that is not true will not run true.

That’s it for this post, thanks Bob and Rick

Do I cut in One Pass or Not…

Well today’s question is a raised panel question and is directed towards making the raised panel in one cut or should I make a series of smaller cuts. This is a good question and one that needs some discussion.

Firstly, if everything is set up perfectly the router can cut the raised panel in one pass. Now having said that there are things to consider. There are three elements that determining that the cut can be made in one pass.

1) What kind of router are you using and is your router designed to cut the raised panel in one pass. Does your router have industrial bearings, the Collet accepts a 1/2″ shank router bits and is in good condition, does your router have a built in speed control that allows you to control the speed of the cutter, etc…

2) Is your router bit designed to cut the raised panel in one pass and yes not all router bits are created equally. For this you need to check with the manufacture of the router bit. And after you have purchased such a router bit is it being kept in good working condition. It is sharp and free of any chipping and or carbide defects.

3) Is your router fixtures designed to cut the panel for the raised panels in one pass. This only works if the other two elements are designed to cut in one pass and in good working condition.

That’s the short answer to the question about if the router can cut the raised panel in one pass or not.  Please leave us your comments and until next time folks, happy and safe routing.

My first Jig…

This is my first jig in a series of many jigs and fixtures that have been featured on the Router Workshop video series. This jig is designed to cut out the leg feature in each of the gable ends for a footstool. Let’s take a look at the features:

1) The pattern is a half pattern that is designed to cut only 1/2 of the total shape. The reasons for cutting just 1/2 of the pattern is 1) You need to always cut into the grain of the footstool gable and 2) you want to have perfect symmetrical cut every time.  See Photos 1, 2 and 3…

2) The next part that is important is the ability to start the moving router bit without touching the footstool gable. You need to be able to put the moving router bit and guide on the pattern jig without touching the project piece. Photo 4

3) The clamping process is done with the toggle clamps. The ones shown on this jig has the ability to add 250 pound per square inch pressure used to hold the project piece in place. See photo 5 and 6…

4) To sum up the jig it has the following: a) symmetrical pattern using the 1/2 pattern technique, b) it has the built in solid start position, c) the quick toggle clamping system and finally the useful how to use information put on the back of the pattern. The information that you add is the router bit needed to make the jig or fixture work and the correct size of guide needed.See Photos 7, 8 and 9….

To see our inventory of jigs and fixtures in action please join the Router Workshop Video Series membership by clicking this link.

An example of the uses of this jig is in Episode 302 and 303 see the picture below.

Keeping your jigs and fixtures organized…

Today we are going to talk about keeping your group of jigs and fixtures organized. As you can see Dad and I have a large variety of jigs and fixtures and with each jig and fixture we have a simple system used to identify each of the tools, identify any support tools like the guide size and router bit.

Anyways we are going to start to add posts discussing the different kinds of jigs and fixtures used on the Router Workshop. There won’t be any kind of order but anyway we will be talking about the features of each of the jigs and fixtures that we have made…

Look to see the next post…

Cheers to Vernon Yates…

Vernon has given US the idea of using 1/4″ plywood instead of paper to create the simple pattern. Today’s post is putting that idea into reality.

Sequence 1)

Cut 4 pieces at 4 1/4″ X 5 1/2″ X 1/4″. Stack the pieces on top of each other and fasten them together. Next mark out the length of desired pattern.

Sequence 2)

Mark the width of the end part to 1 1/4″ then mark the 1/2 way mark at 3/4″. Join the two lines to create the butterfly pattern.

Sequence 3)

Notice the shape of the pattern. Next cut out the pattern though all four parts of the 1/4″ plywood using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Once cut out then we need you to clean up the pattern with a file and sandpaper.

Sequence 4)

Separate all four parts and join them together on a clean piece of 1/4″ pattern plywood. To cut different sizes of butterflies use different sizes of guide bushing see  photos 11 and 12 in sequence 4.

Question/Answer: Today’s question/Answer is about changing the sizes of the finished inlay pieces without changing the pattern. How would you change the size of the pattern hole without changing the pattern? See Photos 11 and 12 for the answer…

Routing technique to create the solid pattern:

1) Drill a 3/4″ hole into the 1/4″ pattern plywood in center of the pattern hole.

2) Now using a 1/2″ flush trim bit, set the depth of cut to the master pattern and cut the out the pattern. Once done you now have the perfectly shaped pattern ready to cut and join the miter cut picture frames together.

Making a Simple Pattern…

Today we are talking about making a simple pattern used to tie the 45 degree miter cut together. This router tip goes with the last post about the simple ways to create a picture frame.

Here are the steps used to create the simple pattern:

1. Get a piece of paper large enough to make the whole pattern. I used a 8 1/2 by 11 piece of paper. First fold the piece of paper in half. See Photo 1 and 2,
2. Fold the piece of paper in half again as shown in Photo 3. Now the piece of paper is folded into a 1/4 the total size.
3. Draw and cut 1/4 of the desired shape on the piece of paper. Once the shape has been cut unfold the paper and you now have the master pattern. See Photo 4 and 5.

1. Tape the master pattern on a piece of 1/4″ plywood or poly and draw the shape onto the pattern material and cut out the pattern.

Question: Is there a way to create the pattern out of 1/4 plywood without the paper master pattern? I welcome all ideas and comments on how to create the pattern without the paper master pattern.

Step 5: Using the router cut the shape on each piece of the 45 degree material as shown in the Router Workshop Video Series. Click here to join the membership…

http://www.routerworkshop.net/freecontents/Inlay_45degree.flv

Why Photograph Your Projects?

We’ve all heard that “Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.” But for our purposes, the operative word is eye. If you want to market or display your products, they have to be seen by somebody.

So unless you plan to go door-to-door and personally show your project to everyone, your only real option is taking photographs. And the quality of those photographs have a huge impact on how successful you are. Click here to see the total article…

Author, Robert Bezman,

Robert has been a professional photographer for more than 12 years. For the past 5 years, he has had a thriving website whose focus has been providing Digital Photography Tips to beginning and intermediate digital photographers.

A simple Picture Frame…

Rick

How can you make a simple picture frame? And, can you make it in a cost effective manner.

Desire,

Thanks for your question, and to start yes you can build your own picture frames with just a router, router table and a few router bits. The determining factor to whether the cost is more than purchasing will be in the cost of the material. If you are using a wood like pine you can build picture frames very cost effective, if you want an exotic material like Zebra wood then this will not be cost effective. So in order to make it cost effective choose a local material.

Now to the making of the picture frame, to start let’s keep it simple and create a flat picture frame using the 1/4″ Round Over Bit, 3/8″ Rabbeting Bit and the 1/4″ Cove Bit.

Step 1: Cut 4 pieces to this dimension 2″ X 3/4″ X desired length.

Step 2: Pick the best side of each of the 4 pieces and mark with an X.

Step 3: Then set up the round over bit into the router and set the height to show the desired profile. Please note please do all changes and set ups with the router unplugged from the power.

Step 4: Set up the router fence to expose only the desired profile. Route both of the front edges with the round over bit.

Step 5: Change the router bit to the cove bit and cut the cove into the outside back edge of all 4 pieces.

Step 6: Is to change the router bit to the 3/8″ rabbeting bit and cut the inside back edge with the rabbeting bit.

The last step is to cut the pieces with your miter saw on the 45 degree and fasten together to create the picture frame.

That’s it, hope you have fun and be sure to include all safety practices.

Regards,

Rick

Use Business Tactics…

When you are looking for that special edge, some kind of advantage over the other businesses in your area, or your niche, learn how to employ specific business tactics to achieve your goals. Remember that flexibility is everything in business and particularly in this industry and the entrepreneur who is able to innovate will rise to the top.

Click here to see the whole article by Jose…

Jose L Riesco,

Marketing Consultant

Jose Riesco worked in the IT industry for 18 years and owned a restaurant before dedicating himself to help restaurateurs and other small business owners with their marketing. Jose has brought top proven marketing practices to the small business industry, making a unique contribution to this business. By creating a unique client-centric Strategy, small business owners will be able to dramatically increase their sales while having happy and repeated clients.

Email Support about the Router…

Today’s post is about an email that I received from Robert another router enthusiast. I have collected our email correspondence and have included them into this post about my personal router uses coaching.

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First email:

Rick,

I was using a 3/8″ up-cut spiral bit and cutting 3/8″ grooves in solid maple 1×4 and maple plywood. after making the first cut and placing the groove over the guide rail, I noticed that the wood did not slide as easily as I thought it should. Is there a problem.

One other thing I noticed was that the bit I was using (brand new MLCS #7467) was leaving a lot of “fuzz” at the bottom of the cut. Even after clearing most of the fuzz, the wood did not seem to slide as easily as I anticipated.

Thanks for your help.

Robert.

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Second email:

Robert,

Can you provide a photo of the results of your cuts?

Rick

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Third email:

Rick

Here are my photos of me experimenting with the box joint.

Robert,

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Fourth email:

Robert,

I have noticed that you have been cutting against the grain and not with the grain. In order to make the box joint with the maximum strength you need to make the box joint cuts with the grain or on the ends and not the edges. May I ask why you have chosen to cut the joint on the edges instead of the ends of the boards? If you cut on the ends you will eliminate the fuzz and the broken fingers…

Rick

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Fifth email:

Rick

I was experimenting with joining wood in that manner to see if it would be feasible to use this to join different types of wood together, such as maple and walnut. Trying to make wider pieces of contrasting wood and the box joint giving additional “personality” to the piece. The pieces would be used as a box lid or sides.

Using this joint on end grain may leave a cleaner cut and if I continue to use it this manner (against the grain) I may be subject to having to clean it up after the cuts are complete. Would a dovetail bit give the same result? I may have to simply glue it up straight without the joints at all.

Do you feel this would not be a strong joint? These pieces would not be “load bearing”.The broken off piece happened after the cuts when I was putting the pieces together and taking them apart.

Thanks. Robert

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Sixth email:

Robert,

It is nice to hear that you are experimenting with the box joint.

In my opinion: It is very tough to put a wood joint on the edge of the piece and use it to glue the pieces together. I personally would use the box joint to joint pieces together that create the 90 degree assembly of the project. Things like assembly of the box sides, box top and drawers remembering that the joints are made with the grain.

The dovetail will yield the same results maybe a bit worst because the spiral router bit cuts on the angle and creates a clean cut. With the dovetail bit it will enter and exit the material at the same angle all at once, which will break out the material. To stop this you need to clamp a backer material on either sides and move the blow out process onto the backer material and not the good pieces.

Rick

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Seventh email:

Rick,

Thanks for the info. I suppose I will just do glue-ups if I decide to join the pieces on edge. Or maybe I’ll continue to play with it and see what happens. Thanks again for your help.

Robert.

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