How do I make raised letters & numbers…

This is a question for Bob and Rick…

I want to make some signs and want to raise my letters instead of sinking them in the wood.  Do you have a video that explains this process.  I have all the letters and numbers, etc.  I purchased a letter and number set, which are OK  but now I would like to raise the letters and numbers.  Any thoughts on this matter.

Burt
Chilliwack Canada

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Burt,

Sorry no video but this is a simple pattern problem. How about buying regular house numbers. Here is a link to some samples explaining regular house numbers.

Things you will need:

Sign material, house numbers in desired font, border sticks, double-stick tape, sub-base for the router and the required guide bushings.

Operational Steps:

Step 1: Using the desired material for the sign you need to mount your raised letters on the sign material attaching the numbers with either nails or double-stick tape.

Step 2: Measure the thickness of the letters and the sign. With this information cut pieces of material to the width of the combined thickness. These are the support pieces that are fastened around the outside edges of the sign material.

Step 3: Using a guide busing and sub-base to rout around the house numbered patterns. Cut the material around the house number then remove all the outside material up to the support pieces around the sign. That’s it you will then have raised numbers instead of sunken in numbers.

Router Tip about guides and patterns:

You can change the size of the house numbers and border around the sign by changing the diameter of the guide bushing.

Guide and router bit combination example:

1/4 inch bit in a 1/2″ guide will make the sign numbers 1/4 bigger that the original pattern. If you want a border around your sign larger than 1/4″ increase the guide diameter to a larger size for routing the outside border.

Please note comments about the sign border:

If you don’t want a border around the edges you need to make the sign larger and once finished cut off the routed border. The router bit can only get as close to the outside edge as the room left between the guide and router bit.

Again if anyone has something to add to this procedure please comment in this post…

Trimming 1/2″ Material

As always sometimes we need to trim a bit of material off the end of our project pieces. This tip shows you how to do it with the router. The home made fence gives extra support while cutting the pieces. Enjoy today’s router tip.

This is just one more router tip from the Router Workshop video series. To join in on the fun just click the photo below, fill out the subscription form and your set to get one new episode of the Router Workshop once a week.

A How To operational question from Robert,

Robert’s Problem…

I just signed up for your videos, and I wonder if you could help me with a template problem I am having.

I need to cut 2 precision 4 inch holes in 3/4 inch MDF. Normally cutting holes is not a problem, but my smallest router is a Porter Cable Trim Router. Trying to cut a 4 inch circle is not possible because the diameter is too big when a circle cutting jig is attached.

So I cut out a 4 inch disk on my bandsaw and then filed it down to exactly 4 inches. My idea was I could use this positive disk with my router and a guide bushing to make a female template. However, I am unsure if this will work or not. In my research on router templates, I have found no instructions on how to make an accurate template from a positive object (the disk). There is plenty of information on using different guide bushings and bits, but I believe I should be able to cut out the template and then use it with the same guide bushing and bit to cut the 4 inch holes.

Is this correct Bob and Rick?

Thanks Robert
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How we would do it…

The fastest and most accurate way to cut 2 – 4 inch holes using your trim router is to use a home-made circle jig. To make this you need the following: double stick tape, 1/4″ piece of plywood, and a 5/8″ finish nail.

Step 1: Mount the desired straight router bit into the trim router and retract the bit so it’s behind the base surface.

Step 2: Then using double stick tape fasten the 1/4″ plywood to the base of the trim router. Make sure this is fastened well. Try not to use cheap carpet tape.

Step 3: Start the router and ease the moving router bit through the 1/4″ plywood. Now we have found the center of the home-made circle jig.

Step 4: Shut off the router and unplug it. Position the tip of the router bit even with the 1/4 plywood base. The router bit will show you the outside dimension of the desired radius, in your case 2″, which will make a 4″ hole.

Step 5: Mark the 2″ radius and position the 5/8 finish nail in the 1/4″ plywood. Create the position hole using the 5/8″ finish nail.  Try and set this position up in the 1/4″ plywood away from the trim router’s original base. Remember, you can locate this point anywhere you feel. Nothing needs to be straight with 1/4″ plywood or the base. The hole can be anywhere in the plywood plus the plywood can be any shape and/or size.

Step 6: locate and drive the 5/8″ finish nail into the MDF leaving just under 1/4″ exposed. Position the 1/4″ plywood with the hole over the 5/8″ finish nail and start the router bit and move it down at approx. 1/4″ at a time or to a depth that you feel comfortable cutting at a time.

That’s how we would do it….

Robert emailed me additional information so we added more information to compensate for the additional issues.

OK Robert,

So your trim router is 4″ square and putting the nail in position as described above doesn’t seam feasible.

How about this….

Let me revise the directions a bit:

1) And instead of putting the nail in the project piece lets put in the sub-base.

2 And instead of using 1/4″ plywood lets use 1/2″ plywood for the sub-base.

Then instead of putting the nail in the project piece we put the nail in the 1/2″ plywood sub-base and cut the head off so it’s under 1/4″.

Next using the same kind of nail mount it in a drill and use the nail as a drill bit to drill the correct size in the perfect position on the project piece.

Now we put the nail that is positioned at the 2″ radius in the router sub-base into the hole in the project piece and cut the perfect 4″ hole.

The only downside to the 1/2″ sub-base is the router bit needs to be a bit longer to cut right through the 3/4″ MDF. Might recommend a 1/2″ straight bit with a 1-1/2 to 2″ flute length.

Hey anyone else have an idea on how to cut the 4″ hole. Please add your ideas in the comments below.

A simple Router Fixture…

Well today we are going to introduce a simple fixture to cut different shapes on the corners of your project pieces. The shape we have elected to use as the example is rounding the corners but this technique can used to make any shape.

As always don’t miss out on the many router tips featured in the Router Workshop Video Series. To join for just a buck an episode click the photo below today’s router tip.

How important is “What’s Next?”

I just finished reading a 40 page “How To” document about a marketing topic. As I completed the document it hit me that I was just presented with 100 more new ways to do a specific task. Now instead of knowing what to do next? Which is why I purchased the E-book I have been given Information overload, now I am more confused than clear on “WHAT ARE” the next steps.

This experience has got me thinking about how the Router Workshop Video series presents the uses of the router. I have come to the realization that the most efficient way to learn is through the step by step guidance process and in my opinion the Router Workshop TV series does this very well!

The beginner needs a clear understanding as to what to do next? We need a program that has a step by step process to complete something that is easy to understand and gives just one concept at a time.

If You are a Beginner:

• You don’t need to know about how to make an Entertainment Center with many complex concepts.
• You don’t need to know operations or wood joints that are beyond the K.I.S.S system.
• You don’t need hundreds of pages of general information about woodworking.

What you are looking for as a beginner in routing?

• Are you looking for the What’s next?
• Are you looking for specific information on How to use the router on specific projects.
• Are you looking for a clear How To demonstration.
• Are You someone in need of one simple step at a time on the uses of the router.

Then TRW membership is for you…Click here to join NOW!

That is exactly what the Router Workshop is really about! We are criticized for going to fast but with TV time constraints it is tough to complete the project with all “How To” included in every episode. We have completed this task and with the TRW membership you to stop rewind and play again.

Breaking down this video series…

We are combining a series of how to video elements based upon the construction of a particular project. Each of the shows are created in a simple step by step processes that when added together create a particular project with the router.

Some Examples are found in the past three posts in this blog.

1. Making wooden drawer-pulls
2. Using your router to position your shelves
3. Making raised panels with the router

With a bonus post that opened a discussion on the importance of the procedures to building a pattern.

Within these posts we have isolated specific “how to” operations out of the Router Workshop video series and have shown you the value in being a member at a very reasonable price. Click the image below to learn more.